The Rising Demand for Sustainable Cotton and the Struggle of Indian Farmers to Receive Fair Prices

Over two decades ago, the tragic passing of Damera Yakamma’s husband, a cotton farmer in a southern Indian village, led her to take over their two acres of land – determined to avoid the use of chemicals on her property.

Since then, Yakamma and other local farmers have been growing organic cotton using natural manure and bio-pesticides, finding that this approach not only reduces costs and is better for health and soil, but also attracts premium market prices from buyers seeking higher-quality cotton.

However, in 2015, they lost their organic certification due to the widespread adoption of a genetically modified cotton variety known as BT. Despite this setback, many farmers, including Yakamma, have remained committed to sustainable cotton production in response to the increasing demand from fashion brands aiming to reduce emissions in their value chains.

The Confederation of British Industry reported that sustainable cotton made up nearly 20% of the global cotton supply in 2020, with an annual rise in demand of 20%. India, where six million farmers cultivate cotton on 12 million hectares, plays a crucial role in scaling up sustainable production.

Global initiatives working with the fashion industry are promoting sustainable cultivation among Indian farmers, aiming to reduce chemical use and promote the efficient use of natural resources.

Yet, despite these efforts, independent farmers like Yakamma continue to struggle to fetch better prices in the market as they adapt to growing climate stress. This challenge has led experts to call for farmers to receive a greater share of the benefits, as well as more support from the government and brands.

The transition to sustainable practices has not been without obstacles. The widespread use of BT seeds, traders exploiting farmers, and the aggressive marketing of chemical pesticides have all compounded the difficulties faced by farmers trying to produce sustainable cotton.

International sustainable cotton organisations have been working to establish quality standards and secure better prices for farmers, in addition to advocating for ethical cotton processing and reducing health risks for producers.

However, the proliferation of chemical pesticides has continued to pose a significant challenge. Saleena Pookunju, a senior programme manager for Better Cotton in India, emphasized the need to strengthen India’s legal framework on pesticide management and enforcement to address this issue.

Climate change has further intensified the risks faced by cotton farmers, with increased occurrences of pests and diseases damaging crops. To mitigate these challenges, experts advocate for the involvement of the private sector in supporting farmers and implementing greener practices.

They also stress the need for the government to create policies that support farmers through subsidies, licensing, marketing channels, storage and processing facilities, and insurance against climate shocks.

In conclusion, the rising demand for sustainable cotton presents an opportunity for Indian farmers to transition to greener practices. However, addressing the challenges they face in accessing fair prices and coping with the impacts of climate change requires a collaborative effort involving the private sector, government, and international organizations.

The wellbeing of Indian cotton farmers and the future of sustainable cotton production depend on concerted support and action from all stakeholders involved in the global supply chain.