Liu Ma Kee, a renowned purveyor of fermented tofu with a history spanning close to 120 years in Hong Kong’s Yau Ma Tei neighbourhood, has unexpectedly closed its doors. This decision comes on the heels of a public health alert regarding elevated levels of bacteria detected in a particular batch of their fermented tofu, prompting the immediate removal of the product from their shelves.
Fermented tofu, also known as fuyu, is a traditional Chinese condiment that has played an integral role in Cantonese cuisine for generations. Its distinct scent and smooth texture have made it a popular addition to numerous traditional dishes. Despite the shop’s longstanding reputation for its quality products, Liu Ma Kee faced a setback when tests revealed heightened levels of Bacillus cereus in one of their batches, necessitating swift action from health authorities.
The Centre for Food Safety in Hong Kong issued a public alert on July 4, informing consumers about elevated bacteria levels found in a batch of fermented tofu retailed by a local vendor. Tests indicated that the sample contained 130,000 Bacillus cereus per gram, surpassing the recommended threshold of 100,000 per gram for safe consumption. Consequently, Liu Ma Kee was directed to withdraw the affected batch from sale, resulting in significant disruption to the shop’s operations.
Mrs. Liu, a member of the family overseeing the fourth-generation business, conveyed her distress during a televised programme in Hong Kong. She recounted the sudden influx of returned purchases and the erosion of customer trust in the wake of the health scare. Despite conducting subsequent tests on a new batch with a clearly marked best-before date, the results revealed persistently elevated levels of Bacillus cereus, further damaging the shop’s reputation.
As a result, on July 18, the longstanding establishment ceased its operations, leaving both customers and the local community stunned by the abrupt closure. The shop, which had long been an emblematic presence in the area, had been featured in a Hong Kong Tourism Board campaign showcasing heritage businesses and local treasures, thereby amplifying the impact of its sudden closure.
Members of the community and devoted patrons have expressed their sorrow over the closure, acknowledging the shop’s role in safeguarding traditional culinary practices in a swiftly modernising city. The closure of Liu Ma Kee signifies the hardships faced by longstanding businesses within an increasingly competitive and regulated industry.
Despite its extensive and storied history, the closure of Liu Ma Kee stands as a sobering reminder of the detrimental effects of food safety disputes on small, family-owned businesses. This regrettable occurrence should prompt discussions about the necessity of striking a balance between food safety regulations and the preservation of cultural and culinary heritage.
The future of Yau Ma Tei’s iconic fermented tofu shop is uncertain. As the community grapples with the abrupt loss of this historic establishment, the legacy of Liu Ma Kee is sure to persist as a symbol of Hong Kong’s rich culinary traditions and the challenges encountered by traditional family businesses in the contemporary era.