Leigh Bowery and the Blitz Kids revolutionised 1980s London subculture with their extravagant use of make-up and fashion, exemplified at Bowery’s nightclub, Taboo. A new exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum explores their impact and legacy, showcasing how personal aesthetics served as means of self-expression during an era of social repression.
Leigh Bowery and the Blitz Kids left an indelible mark on 1980s London subculture through their innovative use of make-up and hair. Their outrageous looks were epitomised at Bowery’s nightclub, Taboo, which operated from 1985 to 1986, following the influential Blitz Club. Bowery’s mantra for entrance was simple: “Dress as if your life depends on it, or don’t bother.” The newly opened exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum, titled “Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London,” celebrates this vibrant scene and its key figures such as John Galliano and Boy George. Taboo was a creative sanctuary that encouraged self-expression during a socially repressive era, where hair and make-up became tools for personal reinvention. Iconic make-up artist Susanne Bartsch noted the importance of hair and make-up in crafting a look, claiming it helped clubbers embrace their identities fully. The exhibition, curated by Martin Green and NJ Stevenson, also highlights the use of Kryolan make-up, popular among the Blitz Kids for its vivid colours and dramatic styles. Bartsch recalls the flamboyant styles of Bowery, who became a notable figure on the New York club scene after moving there, influencing the emerging aesthetic in the city. Although Bowery passed away in 1994, his legacy continues to inspire contemporary fashion and make-up artists, reinforcing the idea that self-expression through appearance is both an art form and a celebration of individuality.
This article discusses the influence of Leigh Bowery and the Blitz Kids on the 1980s subculture in London, particularly focusing on the transformative power of make-up and hairstyling within the nightlife scene. It references Bowery’s nightclub, Taboo, which became a haven for those seeking to express themselves through extravagant fashion during a period marked by societal repression and the AIDS crisis. The newly opened exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum showcases the era’s aesthetics and uncovers the creative processes behind iconic looks.
The exploration of Leigh Bowery and the Blitz Kids illustrates how make-up and fashion functioned as vital forms of self-expression in 1980s London. Their bold styles and daring approaches laid the groundwork for future generations of artists and performers, underlining the continued relevance and transformative power of personal aesthetics in society.
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